Chanel 1983 Spring / Summer collection white pique cotton midi dress. Pulling inspiration from the 1920s and 1930s and bringing the brand’s tailoring sophistication to a timeless shirt-dress silhouette, this piece is cut with a flattering nipped-in, gathered waist and an open-collar with wide lapels. The white cotton has a waffle texture, adding a sporty feel. The dress exclusively fastens at the front with polished, gold-tone circular buttons containing the brand’s instantly recognisable double-C insignia. The skirt has an apron-like top layer that covers the sides and rear, and the underskirt has a slit at the middle back to allow for ease of movement.

The S/S 1983 collection is from a pivotal moment in Chanel's history; Karl Lagerfeld had just joined the house, some 12 years after Coco died, and was working on the House's couture collections. His trusted assistants, a young Hervé Leger and Eva Campocasso, were handpicked to design this Chanel ready-to-wear presentation. WWD reported that Lagerfeld knew Chanel needed to be pushed into modernity, and brought in many of his own people but he was also nothing if not respectful of the house’s legacy. He gently justified his changes, noting at the time: “Even if she never did it this way, it’s very Chanel, no?”

Many of the garments featured the button design which was, and still is, unique to a particular Chanel collection. We have included a runway shot detailing the button design and a suit which matches this style in what appears to be the same fabric. We purchased this dress as part of an early Chanel collection from the original vendor with all garments dating from the period 1982 - 1990.

The dress is in very good to excellent vintage condition with no flaws of any note. In one or two of the photographs, our studio lights are reflecting a faint yellow haze over the pique cotton but in real life the dress has been expertly cleaned to white and the buttons removed and replaced. Pieces from early Chanel collections are rare to market and this has merit in any Chanel collector’s archive. It is also very wearable in 100% cotton - not lined. There is no size label so please refer to the measurements below- we believe this would fit sizes up to a UK 10 or US 6. Our model is a UK 6 US 0-2 and 5'11". This dress fit her well with some room to spare.

MEASUREMENTS

Bust - 36 in. (91 cm)

Waist - 29 in. (74 cm)

Hip - 38 in. (97 cm)

Length - 42 in. (107 cm)